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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

Model: 2005, 320d, e90.

I notice lately at around 1500 revs (while driving around 20 mph) in 1st or 2nd gear the car chugs or hesitates (misfires?). No engine management lights come on or anything.

I notice it in particular while in heavy traffic on Corks ring road. If I take the acceleration up in a slow constant fashion, she seems to chug like i am hitting the gas on and off.

Sometimes, when I try to replicate it, it doesn't happen. Also, if I put the shoe down, for example she will fly by the 1500 rev mark and no hesitation.

Just wondering if its a fuel filter, turbo, cat converter, MAF, faulty accelerator problem etc. (or maybe the swirl flaps? heard these give problems)

It could also be happening at approx 1500 revs for higher gears, but I guess, it would feel more subtle.

She's not pushing out black plums of smoke or anything, and she has lots of power, so its probably not the turbo. Note, I have also changed the turbo breather about 10000 mikes ago. I service her with the recommended Castrol oil approx every 8000 miles even though I believe thats too early.

I will try change the fuel filter this weekend. I put some diesel treatment into a full tank to clean the injectors. But that didn't make any different.

any ideas, comments are greatly welcomed.
Will.
 

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Hi all,

Model: 2005, 320d, e90.

I notice lately at around 1500 revs (while driving around 20 mph) in 1st or 2nd gear the car chugs or hesitates (misfires?). No engine management lights come on or anything.

I notice it in particular while in heavy traffic on Corks ring road. If I take the acceleration up in a slow constant fashion, she seems to chug like i am hitting the gas on and off.

Sometimes, when I try to replicate it, it doesn't happen. Also, if I put the shoe down, for example she will fly by the 1500 rev mark and no hesitation.

Just wondering if its a fuel filter, turbo, cat converter, MAF, faulty accelerator problem etc. (or maybe the swirl flaps? heard these give problems)

It could also be happening at approx 1500 revs for higher gears, but I guess, it would feel more subtle.

She's not pushing out black plums of smoke or anything, and she has lots of power, so its probably not the turbo. Note, I have also changed the turbo breather about 10000 mikes ago. I service her with the recommended Castrol oil approx every 8000 miles even though I believe thats too early.

I will try change the fuel filter this weekend. I put some diesel treatment into a full tank to clean the injectors. But that didn't make any different.

any ideas, comments are greatly welcomed.
Will.
not swirl flaps
not fuel filter
i done these and its still there in mine intermittantly
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Could be failing dual mass flywheel either ...
I get a bit of clutch judder in the morning when started from cold. Approx 144000 miles on clock.

Do you know of an online parts site for Ireland that lets me know the price of a DMF for an e90?

carparts.ie and micksgarage doesn't have them on theirs.

Note, she idles fine (no misfire) and also makes no noise change when clutched at idle. I remember a mechanic one time telling me to press clutch to see if I hear a noise/squeal when car is left idling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hi PATM,

Seems to be a common fault so, if you have the same issue!

I am thinking of taking the intake manifold (I think what its called) off this weekend to inspect the SWIRL flaps.

I came accross this article:
www.pmwltd.co.uk/swirl_flaps.pdf

But I think the instructions here are for an E46 model rather than a E90 model.

A DMF problem sounds expensive if Paddy is correct. But probably cheaper than an engine failure.
 

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Your engine is quiet different to the one in the pdf from PMW. Go to a dealer or an indie and get it checked over before you trow time and money at it.
List of things to check: MAF, EGR, MAP sensor, rail pressure, injectors, turbo etc.....

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks Chris,

Just took out the MAF tonight.

It had some oil in it, lying on bottom.

I cleaned the MAF using cotton buds.

Not sure if that has any effect!

The problem of intermittent hesitation around 1500 revs does not happen all the time.

PS, she idles just fine.


I might take the car to Morrisons Cahir (I live here) but hope they wont fleece me for a diagnosis!

This weekend, I was thinking of taking the intake manifold off, I could inspect the SWIRL flaps and degunk them if necessary. Also, having the intake off, I could also take off the egr to degunk it also. (Have the Haynes manual)

That said, I will definitely be taking it to the dealer for the final verdict.
 

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Absolutely, I will keep you posted.

That said, how long have you had your intermittent hesitation?
a couple of weeks now.. its only noticelable after the car warms up also its not there before that... and it comes and goes.. clutch is fine in my car maf sensor is fine swirl flaps are replaced egr valve is clean a whistle and a new fuel filter was fitted a few weeks ago. Although when i put eco diesel into the tank it ran without the problem till the tank drained out that was about 2 weeks...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
PATM, all,

Yes, my symptoms start only when engine is warmed up.
It doesn't always happen. But, its happening at least once a day now.

I tested the clutch, by trying to take off in 2nd or 3rd. She will stall. Perhaps this is a crude indicator of its health but nevertheless ...
Again, shes not buring oil and no black blooms of smoke (that I can see) out the back.
She's not buring up fuel anymore that it ususally does.

When engine is cold, and if I take off on a hill, I do get a bit of clutch judder. That said, its being like that for months. No clutch slip when I over take anyone. But perhaps, the problem could still be with the DMF.

I tried reving the car slowly up over the range of revs (up to 2500) while the car was stationary trying to see if the rev needle will drop slightly before going back up as she does when I experience hesitation while driving. Nothing happened around the 1500-2500 rev mark while the car was not moving.

I had a jeep before that had clutch slip, and if memory serves me correctly the needle jumped up (as if the jeep was clutched during driving). However, my experience with the bmw needle is she drops slightly (rather than go up) before returning to the upward position.

I'll try book into Morrisons BMW Cahir in coming days.

Not sure what to tell them. Worried they may fleece me, just to look at the car. I presume they will have to check turbo, turbo sensors (MAF etc), cracked turbo pipes, cam/cranck sensors, fuel injectors, fuel pressure, egr, check the DMF somehow and probably much more. So I have no idea of what the expected cost may be?

Anyone deal with them before?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Hi Lads,

Just said I'd report back with the latest news.

I took out the EGR tonight to clean it.

It didn't make a difference, the rev needle still jumped abit in the usual 1500-2000 rev range in 2nd and 3rd gear. Mind you on a trip back from Dublin today, I noticed it happening in higher gears (slight needle shake/quiver) but less noticeable.

At least I've ruled the EGR out (unless its actually broken).

I have uploaded a few pics of before and after of EGR cleaning.
(used a flat head screwdriver and rag).

Noticed a nice bit of oil on the turbo pipe leading into the EGR. I also took out what I believe is an oxygen sensor on that same turbo pipe. It too was covered in oil.

I'll keep ye posted on any other developments.

I'll be changing the diesel fuel filter and air filter hopefully tomorrow or Friday night. I think the diesel fuel filter is under the car on passenger side. So while under the car, I will check turbo pipes for cracks. In terms of replacing the fuel filter, do I need to do anything special with it? Do I need to connect the pipe on the fuel tank side first and let the filter fill a little with diesel before connecting the fuel pipe on the engine side? Just wondering if there is air within the filter when I connect it up, will it affect the diesel pump etc.
 

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Switch the ignition on and wait for 1minute (don't try starting the car) Turn off key out and then repeat above again.
This will bleed the air out of the system via the pre supply pump

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Switch the ignition on and wait for 1minute (don't try starting the car)
Hi Chris,

On my car, I have one of those dongle keys that is inserted and then I have to press the start button. I presume in my case, its just a matter on inserting the dongle key and this will activate/prime the fuel pump as if I was going to start the car.
 
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