I'm sooooo glad I looked on here. Light came on yesterday on my W reg Z3. first thoughts...££££. much to my relief the pipe was split. Replaced it in 15 mins and took it out for a ride..30 mins later power reappeared. Thanks guys
Hi, I noticed over a period of time that my 2004 BMW 318i was starting to idle a little erratically. I wasn't too worried about it until one day the engine revs started to hunt and I lost power in at low revs. Initially I though it was the ECU going into limp home mode after a battery change. So I coughing up £42 to get the ECU read and reset with little effect.
Over the next few days the fault got much worse. The EML light would come on intermittently and the car would cough and splutter at low revs. Also on occasion the car would stall as soon as I tried to start it. Then wouldn't fire at all for several minutes afterwards.
I started to fear a hefty repair bill until I heard about similar problems being caused by the vent pipe that sits under the inlet manifold cover but runs across the top of the inlet manifold (see pics attached for location of the pipe and what it looks like. It is item 2 on the schematic). Looking at the pipe I couldn't tell that there was anything wrong as the pipe is covered in a soft rubberised sheath but as soon as I squeezed the pipe it was apparent that the rubber hose inside the sheath had deteriorated. When I pulled the pipe off I found that the last inch on either end of the pipe was still quite firm but the central 4 - 5 inches were soft and squidgy. Not only that it also felt sticky inside as if the rubber had vulcanised.
My current situation is that the replacement part is still in the post. In the mean time I cut out the central section of the pipe and replaced it with a small section of steel tubing I had to hand. I could tell more or less straight away that things were better than they had been. I still have problems in that the car can still run a little erratic and once the engine is up to temperature the EML light comes on below 2000 rpm but then goes out once it hits about 2200 rpm. However I think these problems are down to my DIY job being a bit leaky and hope that the fault will go away once the correct part is fitted and a suitable run in time allowed to pass.
One point I'd like to make is that I loathed paying my local garage £42 for what was in the end 5 mins of work to clear fault codes from the ECU. I'm just about to invest £43 in my own OBD meter so I can clear fault codes to my hearts content as well as monitor in real time any issues.
My head tells me that the pipe is the problem but in my heart there is still a nagging doubt that there's more issues left to be found. Only time and a new vent hose will tell.
Does anyone have any idea as to what sort of mileage you can expect from a BMW N42 engine that gets an oil and filter change every 5k - 7k? I'm currently at 110k with only a couple of coil packs and a couple of sets of plugs needing replacing to date?
Started the car on Thursday evening only for it to start misfiring like hell. Then the Engine Check Light came on for about 10 seconds and then started to blink on and off and I noticed a blue haze smoke issuing from under the bonnet.
When I had a look it was oil burning off on the exhaust manifold. For some odd reason oil had been leaking out of the oil filler cap. My initial thought was that I'd blown a coil pack or possibly 2 but the oil leaking got me wondering.
So Saturday morning and I've stripped off the rocker cover to have a look before I went and bought some bits, new coils, filters, oil etc. Glad I did because what I've found is that the timing chain guide has broken and it looks very much like the timing chain has jumped.
I had a chat with my local garage, the guy there has always been pretty good with me. He thinks that the miss fire is due to the valves being bent and to replace them, the timing chain & guides plus bolts, gaskets and labour it's going to be close to £1000
I've done heads myself in the distant past, an old Rover SD1, Ford Escort and Renault Clio but nothing as complicated as this engine and think I'm out my depth. Is there an easy way to check if the valves are damaged, the only thing I can think of is a compression test? If the valves are ok is it still a major job to get the timing chain replaced, ie head off?
Any advice at this point would be helpful. Otherwise it's going to the scrapheap in the sky.
And the good news, the vent pipe arrived on Friday!!!!
Ok, so after thinking I've written off my engine I had a chat with my brother who's always been handy with a spanner. He advised me to pull the plugs and see of I could turn the crank and if so if it bound at any point or got tight. I did this and to my relief there was no binding or tightness and all valves appeared to be working fine.
I then remembered a post on here about setting piston 1 to TDC by putting a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole and turning the crank until the screwdriver was at it's highest point. Not very scientific and I could have been out by a degree or two but I did it. Rocking the crank back and forth around TDC until it felt about right. I then checked the position of both the inlet and exhaust cams, thanks to the rectangular section on the end of the camshafts. I could see straight away that both of them were out. Inlet by about 1 link of the chain and the exhaust by about 2. This matched what my little diagnostic meter said. Inlet crank out of range, Exhaust crank out of range and a couple of other faults, some of which I believe were to do with the vent pipe.
I removed the cam chain tensioner and was surprised to see how strong he spring still was. With the tensioner out I was able to jump both cams a link or two on the chain so they looked about right. Tensioner back in I did another couple of turns of the crank by hand just to make sure nothing was sticking or hitting each other. The I rebuilt the top of the engine, rocker cover, cables, plugs, coils etc. After connecting the battery I cleared the fault codes and even fitted my new vent hose pipe.
Holding my breath I turned the key and low and behold she started straight away. It sounded like there was still a misfire on one of the cylinders. I checked the diagnostic and this time I only had 3 errors. One to do with the inlet cam being out of range, so it either slipped a little when I started up or I was out by a link on my realignment. However I'm still showing a misfire on cylinder 4, which is a bit annoying. I tried moving the coil pack between 3 and 4 clear the code and started up again with the same result. So compression test next.
However as this is a thread about the vent hose I would like to point out that the car was running a lot smother even with the misfire. The engine wasn't hunting at tick over and all of the other fault codes have cleared and not come back. Which would suggest that the vent pipe was the source of my other problems.
RESULT: 2 errors in error memory !
10062 CDKMD - Misfire detection, Checksum failure
10051 CDKMD01 - Misfire detection cyl.3
I have replaced all 4 of the Coil Packs and the Chain Tensioner. I then came across this thread and so I decided to check the vent host. As previously described, the middle of my pipe is spongy and sticky / gluey. However, the most blocked part appeared to be the Angle Connector on the end of the Vent Hose. There appeared to be a large buildup of grit type stuff, which I assume is some sort of solidified oil. It was jet black in colour, like black sand, in oil. I assume it's some sort of carbon type deposit. I cleaned it out as well as I could, just scraping the deposits out with a small flat screwdriver.
I also checked both the Inlet and Exhaust Camshaft Sensors. Both were prefectly clean with just a coating of clean oil on them - signs of a well maintained engine I think.
Unfortunately, there's no great change. The car is idling very rough. Any thoughts or suggestions ?