Could be failing dual mass flywheel either ...

 

I get a bit of clutch judder in the morning when started from cold. Approx 144000 miles on clock.

Do you know of an online parts site for Ireland that lets me know the price of a DMF for an e90?

carparts.ie and micksgarage doesn't have them on theirs.

Note, she idles fine (no misfire) and also makes no noise change when clutched at idle. I remember a mechanic one time telling me to press clutch to see if I hear a noise/squeal when car is left idling.

 

not swirl flaps
not fuel filter
i done these and its still there in mine intermittantly

 

Hi PATM,

Seems to be a common fault so, if you have the same issue!

I am thinking of taking the intake manifold (I think what its called) off this weekend to inspect the SWIRL flaps.

I came accross this article:
www.pmwltd.co.uk/swirl_flaps.pdf

But I think the instructions here are for an E46 model rather than a E90 model.

A DMF problem sounds expensive if Paddy is correct. But probably cheaper than an engine failure.

 

Your engine is quiet different to the one in the pdf from PMW. Go to a dealer or an indie and get it checked over before you trow time and money at it.
List of things to check: MAF, EGR, MAP sensor, rail pressure, injectors, turbo etc.....

HTH

 

Thanks Chris,

Just took out the MAF tonight.

It had some oil in it, lying on bottom.

I cleaned the MAF using cotton buds.

Not sure if that has any effect!

The problem of intermittent hesitation around 1500 revs does not happen all the time.

PS, she idles just fine.


I might take the car to Morrisons Cahir (I live here) but hope they wont fleece me for a diagnosis!

This weekend, I was thinking of taking the intake manifold off, I could inspect the SWIRL flaps and degunk them if necessary. Also, having the intake off, I could also take off the egr to degunk it also. (Have the Haynes manual)

That said, I will definitely be taking it to the dealer for the final verdict.

 

can you keep us in the loop as to how you get on....
cheers...

 

Absolutely, I will keep you posted.

That said, how long have you had your intermittent hesitation?

 

a couple of weeks now.. its only noticelable after the car warms up also its not there before that... and it comes and goes.. clutch is fine in my car maf sensor is fine swirl flaps are replaced egr valve is clean a whistle and a new fuel filter was fitted a few weeks ago. Although when i put eco diesel into the tank it ran without the problem till the tank drained out that was about 2 weeks...

 

I put blanks in place of my swirl flaps and it didn't cure the problem.

 

Ok thats interesting.

This definately seems to be an issue with 320d's.

 

I'd be pretty confident that its suffering a similar fate to my own - symptoms are the same and it gets worse in start / stop traffic. It cost €60 to have it diagnosed by BMW and the clutch / flywheel was replaced under warranty from the garage I bought it from.

 

contact these guys

http://www.chippedire.com/

Ask for Joe.

 

may have to look into this.. some excuse for a remap.....

 

PATM, all,

Yes, my symptoms start only when engine is warmed up.
It doesn't always happen. But, its happening at least once a day now.

I tested the clutch, by trying to take off in 2nd or 3rd. She will stall. Perhaps this is a crude indicator of its health but nevertheless ...
Again, shes not buring oil and no black blooms of smoke (that I can see) out the back.
She's not buring up fuel anymore that it ususally does.

When engine is cold, and if I take off on a hill, I do get a bit of clutch judder. That said, its being like that for months. No clutch slip when I over take anyone. But perhaps, the problem could still be with the DMF.

I tried reving the car slowly up over the range of revs (up to 2500) while the car was stationary trying to see if the rev needle will drop slightly before going back up as she does when I experience hesitation while driving. Nothing happened around the 1500-2500 rev mark while the car was not moving.

I had a jeep before that had clutch slip, and if memory serves me correctly the needle jumped up (as if the jeep was clutched during driving). However, my experience with the bmw needle is she drops slightly (rather than go up) before returning to the upward position.

I'll try book into Morrisons BMW Cahir in coming days.

Not sure what to tell them. Worried they may fleece me, just to look at the car. I presume they will have to check turbo, turbo sensors (MAF etc), cracked turbo pipes, cam/cranck sensors, fuel injectors, fuel pressure, egr, check the DMF somehow and probably much more. So I have no idea of what the expected cost may be?

Anyone deal with them before?

 

Give them an as exact description of the issue as possible as they need this to run the correct "test plan"

 

Hi Lads,

Just said I'd report back with the latest news.

I took out the EGR tonight to clean it.

It didn't make a difference, the rev needle still jumped abit in the usual 1500-2000 rev range in 2nd and 3rd gear. Mind you on a trip back from Dublin today, I noticed it happening in higher gears (slight needle shake/quiver) but less noticeable.

At least I've ruled the EGR out (unless its actually broken).

I have uploaded a few pics of before and after of EGR cleaning.
(used a flat head screwdriver and rag).

Noticed a nice bit of oil on the turbo pipe leading into the EGR. I also took out what I believe is an oxygen sensor on that same turbo pipe. It too was covered in oil.

I'll keep ye posted on any other developments.

I'll be changing the diesel fuel filter and air filter hopefully tomorrow or Friday night. I think the diesel fuel filter is under the car on passenger side. So while under the car, I will check turbo pipes for cracks. In terms of replacing the fuel filter, do I need to do anything special with it? Do I need to connect the pipe on the fuel tank side first and let the filter fill a little with diesel before connecting the fuel pipe on the engine side? Just wondering if there is air within the filter when I connect it up, will it affect the diesel pump etc.

 

Switch the ignition on and wait for 1minute (don't try starting the car) Turn off key out and then repeat above again.
This will bleed the air out of the system via the pre supply pump

HTH

 

Switch the ignition on and wait for 1minute (don't try starting the car)

Hi Chris,

On my car, I have one of those dongle keys that is inserted and then I have to press the start button. I presume in my case, its just a matter on inserting the dongle key and this will activate/prime the fuel pump as if I was going to start the car.

 

Hi lads,

I changed both the fuel and air filter last night.

Notable improvement, but I'll know for sure on my drive home when I hit traffic and hit more of the 1500-2000 rev range.

I am planning on cleaning the MAF also to help restore it since there seems to a film/coating of oil/greece/grim on it. At least from what I can see through the tiny little holes on the plastic protecting the sensor.

My plan is to spray Halfords Electrical Contact Cleaner on it.
Link to product below.
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/s...duct_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_195717_langId_-1_categoryId_212351

This wont do any harm to the sensor, right?

thanks again for all the input.
Will.

 

Just an update.

I am booked in to BMW for Wednesday afternoon for a diagnostic scan.

Told me it could take a few hours and may involve extra time.

Price for scan is 120 plus vat.

Buying a autel scanner myself from beatthegarage (ebay) today. No harm to have in the future.

 

any update on this??

 

Not yet, I'm booked in today at BMW for a scan.

I don't think I'll receive my own scanner until the end of the week.

I didn't notice the hesitation at the lower gears yesterday. Perhaps the Wynn's Diesel Injector Protector (silver bottle) may have helped a little.

http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/s...duct_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_216139_langId_-1_categoryId_212351

Though when I mentioned it to BMW Monday, they gave out to me for using it!

Can't find the link now, but I was reading on a post yesterday about someone who had the same/similar symptoms and used the following:

http://www.ecotek.eu/powerboosthelp.htm

He was saying that BMW said the head had to come off his engine to clean carbon build up in cylinder 1, the one beside the egr. So he took a chance with this powerboost product.

 

Nothing to report yet.

BMW rang this evening saying they want the car again tomorrow.

Diagnostic showed no problems.

Said they took it for test drive and found nothing until they where returning to garage. And now know what I was referring to.

Hopefully they will tell me the answer tomorrow and not give me a huge bill just the let me know the problem!

I'll report back tomorrow.

 

Hi lads,

Heres the result.

No faults showed up on the diagnostic scan except for 3 glowplugs.

That of course has nothing to do with the symptoms.

He did ask also if she was chipped, as another fault or reading suggested she was over boosting. She is not chipped.

I got them to replace all 4 glowplugs, examine the manifold and do the diagnostic scan which totaled 463 euro. Pricey, given I could have done the plugs myself. But felt it was better to get their opinion on the SWIRL flaps when manifold was off.

I was told when they took off manifold there was an actuator that controls the SWRIL flap arm that was broke off. The mechanic in fairness said he had a spare one and replaced it for free.

What I will say, is I didn't notice any hesitation or very little of it the morning I sent the car in. So my only conclusion is that the diesel injector cleaner must of helped.

I only got the car back this evening, so it will be tomorrow when I drive to work before I will notice if the problem resolved itself.

 

Problem still exists.

I am beginning to wonder if its the fuel and where I am getting it locally.

May change to a new garage and see what happens.

 

i try and vary where i get my fuel this does seem to help and i also use a bottle of eco diesel and it does help and i have all of the above mentioned things done to mine that you have done....
last car was a mark 4 golf and despite what anyone says the car performed and reacted differently when run on different fuels from different garages... try that and let me know how you get on bud..

 

Hi Lads,

I used my own Autel Scanner that arrived today and found the following BMW DME codes and I used the following website to find out what they mean.

http://www.endtuning.com/bmwcodes.html

4212 = Glow Plug Cyl 1 - Activation Interrupted
4222 = Glow Plug Cyl 2 - Activation Interrupted
4232 = Glow Plug Cyl 3 - Activation Interrupted
3FF1 = Air Flow Meter
4B90 = Rail Pressure Control at Engine Start

I have posted a thread at:
http://www.bmw-driver.net/forum/showthread.php?t=31987
to see if others know what all this means.

I still have the hesitation. I now notice it at higher revs in higher gears. For example 6th gear round about 2200 revs. It may have always been happening at that rev and I am only noticing it now, given I know what to look for!

BMW told me they replaced 4 glowplugs, the MAF and fuel pressure was ok.
I will report back here to this thread if anything significant shows up.

 

If your car starts ok and runs on all cylinders in the cold mornings then you can discard the glow plug faults (according to a BMW SA) otherwise your glow control unit might ned changing.
Try a known good MAF whipe the faults drive the car for 10miles or so and see what comes back.
Check your battery voltage while the car is started to see if your battery is shagged.
Check the pre supply pressure and rail pressure.

 

Thanks a million Chris for the feedback.

One thing I am unsure of is how to "Check the pre supply pressure and rail pressure".

In terms of the codes, I will wipe them and see if the reappear.
There is a BMW breakers near Cahir, I may give them a call to see if they have a 2nd hand MAF. I wouldn't know where I could get my hands on a known good MAF for a test. So all I can do is wipe code and see what happens.

In terms of the hesitation, I am noticing it through out the rev range now, not always but it is there and I can produce it once a day at least.

I'll check the battery tonight with volt meter with car on and off.

I will scan the BMW diagnostic printout and may upload it, if anyone may find it useful.

regards and thanks,
Will.

 

I had all these symptoms on 2. 530ds e39. Both cases were resolved by the main culprit of the maf. Arsin around with breaker maf's is for the birds.....get a new oem one and go to a Bm indie. I feel for you as I went thru the exact same frustration.

 

Thanks. You'd think the BMW diagnostic scan would have shown a MAF fault!
There was some issue with "over boost" in the scan result.

I was looking at the maf-shop and it has a MAF from 160 euro plus shipping.
http://www.maf-shop.com/product_inf...info.php/info/p40_BOSCH-Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-MAF-BMW-0928400529-13627788744.html

The one in my car has the following serial number:
0928400504

The one in the web link above claims to replace this one.

If you know of other online reliable bosch maf shops, let me know.

Thanks,
Will.

 

Just had car back in with BMW.

They said their mistake was they forgot to wipe old codes clear.

They also said they have tested the MAF and its perfect.

I have now changed where I get my fuel and old fuel is well through system by tonight. She was not jumpy on way home.

Time will tell.

I'll report back in a few days,
Thanks,
Will.